Indonesia, March 2008

I tend to jump on every opportunity I get to go somewhere new, so when my friend Mitch told me he'd be studying in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, I knew I had to kiss ass and get an invite. It worked, and resulted in a thoroughly enjoyable week in my 20th country.


Day 1

After a frantic week of packing up my home in Chicago, moving furniture into storage, renting the place, visiting my family, and wedging myself into middle seats on 13 hours flights, I found myself in Kuala Lumpur. Mitch was waiting for me at arrivals, and the holiday phase of my leave was about to begin.

Day 2

After a restless 6 hours at the overpriced airport hotel, we were up at 4:30am for the 2 1/2 hour flight on Air Asia to Solo, Indonesia. The A320 was nearly empty, making the $36 flight enjoyable, but without much sleep. I am often amazed at how so many Asian airlines and airports can provide such lovely service, with friendly people, new planes, and on-time flights. Whereas air travel in the US is generally painful from the moment you enter the airport until you've finished filing your lost baggage claim at your destination. Mind you, Australia does a great job moving people around as well. In Melbourne I can still show up 20 minutes before my flight to Sydney and know I'll make it through security and onto the plane without dealing with lines, crowds, or security staff who treat everyone like a terrorist. To top it off, you get dinner on the flight. But I digress...

My first view of Indonesia was during our descent, as we passed rice fields and villages in a valley surrounded by volcanoes. On the ground, Solo airport was roughly the size of a classroom, but relatively efficient. A 7-day visa-on-arrival cost $10. Since there were only 2 foreigners who required visas on the flight, I nearly had the visa line to myself, and was in a taxi to Jogja less than 10 minutes after leaving the plane. Even at 8am it was warm and humid, despite supposedly being the coolest time of day.

The drive to Jogja took about 40 minutes, through countless villages and a few rice fields. Java is a very densely populated island, but with the exception of Jakarta, is not very built up. We always seemed to be in an urban area, but the sporadic rice fields removed any feeling of being in an overpopulated land. As we entered JogJa, traffic became a bit chaotic, and the rice fields began to vanish.

I was staying at a hotel on the campus of Universitas GajahMada, which Mitch had arranged for me. For $13 a night, I had a decent room, and a complimentary breakfast with included excellent coffee and unedible food.

A bit sleep-deprived and starving, we headed out for lunch at 'Boulevard', a cafe across the street from the university. After lunch, we spent a few hours wandering about the city, ending up in the Prawirotaman neighborhood, where we had dinner at 'Milas', an astoundingly good vegetarian cafe. It is more than just a cafe actually, it includes a shop, a library, and several private tropical outdoor eating areas, the kind where you remove your footwear and sit low around a communal table as giant mosquitoes attempt to maim you. We dined with some of Mitch's expat friends; some students, some travellers. If Milas existed in Melbourne, I would eat there every week.

Day 3

At 8am, were met at my hotel by a tour guide and two female uni students who would be our drivers on a 6-hour motocycle tour of the Hindu and Bhuddist temples which surround Jogja. I was openly uneasy since, at 34, I have never been on a motocycle in my life. Considering I was also familiar with Jogja traffic (no rules, no lanes), I wasn't sure what Mitch was getting me into.

Thankfully, my childish whining was unwarranted. As soon as we were on the bikes, I actually felt safer than I had felt in several of the taxi rides we had taken the day before. Most of the journeys were off the main roads, on purpose built cycle tracks. The ride became the best part of the trip once we left the city and entered a stunning scenery of rice fields, mosques and villages. I regret that I didn't have the courage to free a hand to take photos from the bike.

Rice Fields near Prambanan
The tour included stops at several temples, ending at the Prambanan complex of Hindu temples. At the complex we stopped for lunch, then spent a couple of hours wandering about. Sadly, several temples were recently significantly damaged by an earthquake, so they are currently viewed through scaffolding.

Prambanan

Prambanan

Temple Fatigue
The trip back to Jogja was a little scary, as we were caught in a massive rainstorm. Jogja is a city of motorcycles, and it was quite a scene to be in the middle of a pack of about 100 bikes blowing through traffic in the middle of a tropical downpour. Somehow, we survived. Back in Jogja, we had dinner at 'Parsley' a bakery cafe with wifi not far from my hotel. Good pizza.
Day 4

After stopping by a bank in the morning for a refill on the Monopoly-money, we took a Colt up to the mountain village of Kaliurang, which is about 25 km North of Jogja. A Colt is basically a pickup truck which has been converted into a passenger bus. Basic and privately run, you flag them down anywhere you can, and pay the driver based on how far you travel. A short hop around the city would cost about 20 cents, but the 1 hour trip to Kaliurang ran almost a dollar.

In Kaliurang, there was is a forest park with several walking trails and lookout towers. On good days, the towers would provide views of the nearby volcano, but today the entire park was in the middle of a dripping warm cloud. We had to amuse ourselves with the waterfalls, monkeys and spiders instead.

Feed Me

Waterfall

View Sans Volcano

Lazy Day in Kaliurang
We attempted to find our way to a village which had recently been destroyed by a volcanic lava flow, but didn't have much luck. We concluded the afternoon at the village's museum, which had suprisingly good exhibits on Javanese history, focusing on fashion and the royal women of Java. The museum complex was also quite stunning, despite looking like absolutely nothing from the outside.

During the regularly scheduled downpour, we caught another Colt for the 20km trip back to Jogja.

Dinner was at a 'Daisy's', a modern Asian/Western restaurant with free Wifi and a rather good band.

Day 5

A restful day. I spent the morning reading a week's worth of newspapers, and watching Indonesian chat shows, one of which included a segment with a chef preparing and serving deep fried Guinea Pigs. Tasty.

In the afternoon we did take in a few touristy shopping spots. Most of our local travels were by becak, or pedal-powered cart, with Mitch doing all the haggling.


On a Becak
Day 6

The plan for was both Mitch and I to hire a car and a driver to drive to the Borobudur temple at sunrise, then on to the Dieng Province, a little over three hours out of Jogja. Unfortunately, very bad stomach things happened to Mitch overnight, which left me heading out to Borobudur alone at 5am.

Borobudur is one of the world's most famous Bhuddist temples. I consider myself agnostic, but there is definitely some power in places like this. I arrived at 6am, just in time for the gates to open. This was a good move. Borobudur belonged to me and two Dutch travellers for 20 minutes before masses of tourists and schoolchildren arrived in in the hundreds.

In 20 minutes, I managed to wander about the temple, lost both a physical and mental cloud. Swallows darted about the silent air as thousands of stone people stared back from 9th century carvings, asking me questions I couldn't hear. It was incredible.

Borobudur

Borobudur

Borobudur

Borobudur
By 6:30 the temple was mobbed with rich white tour groups and hordes of Indonesian schoolchildren being led about by teachers with megaphones. The tranquility and awe were gone, and I headed back to the car.

Borobudur, Covered with Tourists
It was a 2 hour drive to the Dieng Province. Since my driver was short on English, I had only a short Lonely Planet blurb to go on. By 9am we were in one of the most stunning places I had ever seen. Well above 10,000 feet, the steep hills were covered with terraced farms with irrigation systems that had been unchanged for centuries. This is one of the most fertile lands on the planet, such that most rice farmers turn over 3 crops a year, making them quite comfortable, by Indonesian standards.
The driver dropped me off at a Hindu temple complex, which I gave brief notice but my eyes drifted back to the landscape. I found myself sitting on a bench in the frigid mist just staring at the hills for an hour. For a time, I had no job, no home, no world to go back to. I was finally on holiday: my mind was clear and I was somewhere unconceivable, which is exactly where I needed to be.

Dieng Province

Dieng Province

Park in Dieng Province
The tour of the Dieng Province also included stops at a hot spring lake fed by grey, blue, and yellow sulfur steam, as well as a huge park covered with lakes and caves. After quite a bit of walking, I settled in for the queasy 3-hour ride home, which passed through some lovely villages, but with quite a few too many twists and turns.

Hot Spring Lake

Another, Less Voilent Lake
Day 7

The end. Checking in at Yogyakarta airport I realised I was not quite ready to leave. The prospect of being at work in less than 18 hours was a bit saddening. It was a 1 hour Garuda flight to Jakarta, then on to Sydney and Melbourne with Qantas, totalling about 10 hours en route.

I managed to enjoy Indonesia without any stomach flu, despite being warned otherwise. It was amusing, but painful to then realise that it was Qantas who would make me voilently ill. I found myself shuddering and sweating at Melbourne Airport for 2 hours before I was sufficiently contained to make a taxi ride home. Thanks Qantas.. between the middle seats, delayed flights, and food poisoning, you really managed to disappoint me for the first time.

Postscript

A friend of mine and I took in a 3 1/2 hour Henry Rollins show last night, my fourth time seeing one of his spoken word performances. I find that he is one of the few mouths in this world I agree with 100% of the time. He spent a good part of this show describing his travels to such places as Syria, Lebanon, and Iran. Everywhere he travelled he met smiling faces, beautiful people, and overwhelming hospitality. He would then be dismayed returning home to be interrogated like a criminal because of the stamps in his passport. It was sad to hear his reality of America's isolation and fear, a reality that I understand quite well.

Indonesia was a bit like that for me. Everyone was lovely, and people with limited means always seemed to enjoy life more than the richest Americans and Australians I know. I always return from these holidays a better man; refreshed, and focused on my place in the world. A few months back in the corporate world will undoubtedly pull be back into my former cynical self. For that, I only hope another week in Indoensia is on the horizon.

Wikipedia: Yogyakarta
Prambanan
Borobudur
Send me an e-mail at 'curtis' at (this domain)
AIM/MSN - underdunk26 April 18, 2008